Difference between revisions of "Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap"

Revision as of 15:55, 20 January 2007

Contributed by AMC Eaglen Nest member "monsterbronc"

OK, I did it, the eagle is now a stickshift, and all I can wonder. is why would anybody want an auto? this thing drives sooo much better with a stick, before at 70 mph my foot was on the floor, now its on the floor to get there, but holds speed well at part throttle, ive even broke 85mph. I bet my fuel mileage just went wayyyy up.

1981 AMC Eagle auto to T-4/5 swap

ok, here it is, the complete tranny swap guide thingy.

Disclamer: I am not responsible for anything, got that? If you mess something up or hurt yourself or someone else, its your own fault, not mine.

I also give permission for this to be copied, exchanged, given, moved, reposted, pretty mutch feel free to use this however you want, but under no circumstances is it to be sold. This is free for everyone.

Please bear in mind, I did this in a hurry, and in lower 20’s F weather, outside on my lawn. so if something I did seems unsafe, it probably was unsafe, and you should think of a safer way to do it. For instance I did all the lifting of transmissions and stuff, when Had I been in a shop on a concrete floor, I would have used a jack.

You will need

A t-4 or 5 transmission with GM 10 spline input (you can swap inputs, I did)

A 258 to t-4 or 5 bell housing (try to find one with fork)

A 258 flywheel for 10.4 inch clutch

6 flywheel bolts

6 pressure plate bolts

4 transmission bolts

Clutch kit, includes: Disc; Pressure plate; Pilot bearing; Throwout bearing; and a Disc centering tool

Throwout fork

Eagle clutch and brake pedals

Eagle slave and master cylinder for the clutch, with resivoir and hose

Shifter and shifter boot

Basic sockets and wrenches did the trick, I never needed my ½” drive.

And most importantly GOOD MECHANICAL SKILLS, if changing your oil is complicated, than DO NOT ATTEMPT.

If you don’t have a tourque wrench, I suggest getting one, they come in handy when dealing with drivetrain stuff, Home Depot has a Husky, ½” drive for like $60 or so, and as a mechanic, that’s a DEAL. And its lifetime warrentied, my Matco ones aren’t, and cost over $200 next one I buys gonna be that Husky.

part #s slave rebuild kit brake best- chk351835 lifetime warrenty

clutch kit 10.4 inch disc dynapack- nu1916-2 lifetime warranty

T-4 transmission, out of 81 jeep scrambler, PN unknown

258 bell housing off 83 cj PN unknown (wrong one, had low mount for fork)

pilot bushing federal mogul pb-79

10 spline input shaft 1351085008r, brand unknown

all other parts are off of other eagles, so I do not know specifics

Step one remove the auto, pretty simple

Lift up front of vehicle and set tires on blocks, or pull onto ramps, chock back wheels and apply park brake.

Unbolt any skid plates you might have under the t-case, mine had 5 bolts holding it on. Now disconnect the driveshafts fron the t-case, and just push them out of you way, you don’t need to completely remove them, I didn’t.

Next, unhook the linkages and cut the 3 prong plug off for the reverse lights and the neutral safety, it wont fit the new tranny.

Mine had the shifter on the floor, so go ahead and pull the carpet back a little and remove the shifter plate to expose the hole in the floor.

Place a jack under the tranny to support it, and remove the crossmember, then slowly let the jack down. Now you have acess to the top bolts on the bell housing.

Then I unbolted the studs holding the t-case to the tranny, it dosent matter if the nuts come off or if the studs pull out, you can put the studs back in before you put it back together.

Now place a pan underneath the rear of the tranny, and pull the t-case off. Any oil should be caught by the pan. Slide the t-case out of you way, careful not to damage the speedo cable. And to keep from making too much of a mess, stuff a plastic grocery bag in the end to slow the drip.

Remove the starter and just let it hang, it wont hurt it, I do it all the time.

Pull off the flywheel cover plate, and remove the four bolts holding the tourque converter to the flex plate, you will need to pry the engine over a couple times for this.

Now remove the two side bolts on the tranny, they take a 5/8, then the two above them, 9/16, but remember they have a nut on the other side,(don’t ask me why).

Now remove the dipstick tube(use the pan again, and another grocery bag to fill the hole) Then with the tranny supported undo the three top bolts9/16, and the tranny is free.

Now unbolt the 6 flywheel bolts, and we are ready to start the swap.

First thing to note is the T-4 is about 1 ½” shorter than the tourquflight, but its not enough to bother the driveshafts…..